Today we’re going to be taking apart andtearing down the Galaxy S7 Active.
This is the exact same phone that I did my durabilitytest on and the same phone that we verified whether the screen was plastic or glass, that’swhy it’s all cracked up right now.
I’m going to turn the phone off.
Remember thatthe top layer of the screen is plastic.
We are going to use heat to soften the adhesivebetween the screen and the frame of the phone in order to remove it.
So make sure not toget your heat gun too close to the screen because it will melt.
And if you’re onlydoing a battery replacement and you want to reuse the screen it’s very important tonot damage it.
So I’m taking a heat gun, you can also use your mother’s hair dryerif it gets hot enough, and I’m heating up the screen until it’s too hot to touch.
It should only take about 60 seconds or so.
You want the heat to penetrate underneaththe plastic layer, underneath the glass layer, and underneath the AMOLED layer.
Now thatthe screen is warmed up I’m going to take a thin metal pry tool and slide it betweenthe rubber edge of the phone and the glass layer of the screen.
The screen does cooldown after a while so I’m going to heat it up again about every 60 seconds.
Good thingI have plenty of these thin metal pry tools to keep the screen from re-adhering down tothe frame.
You can also use a business card or a playing card.
This phone is very similarto the waterproof Galaxy S5; the screen lifts up the same way.
You have a much lower chanceof damaging the buttons though with the Galaxy S7 Active as you’ll see in a second.
Sonow I’m taking my playing card and slipping it underneath the AMOLED screen taking veryspecial care not to hit that bottom edge corner because that’s where the AMOLED screen isthe weakest.
You can see as I slide my pry tool down, my screen is already cracked, soit’s cracking more as I lift it out of the frame.
I had zero expectation that the screenwas going to survive this teardown because of how little support the glass is givingthe AMOLED display underneath.
You can see the glass crack as I lift it up out of theframe a little bit.
Softening the adhesive as I go.
I did drop the home button out ofthe frame.
That does need to stay on the frame of the phone as you lift the screen.
Afterabout 5 minutes of heating and reheating and cutting the adhesive, the screen was readyto lift out of the frame.
Take very special care not to damage the top end of the screenbecause that’s where the ribbon cables are located that give signals to the screen, soif you damage those, you’re just out of luck.
There’s a little plastic tab holdingdown the screen ribbon connector; I’m going to pop that out.
Remember that the phone isoff at this point; that is very very important.
This is the replacement screen; I will linkthe replacements down in the video description below as soon as they become available.
Youprobably will need to move the buttons from your old screen to your new screen.
(The backand menu buttons.
) There’s a plastic connector over the home button scanner; going to removethat.
It is easily replaceable.
And then there’s one little screw over the battery connector;set that off to the side.
And then unplug the battery.
Very important for the rest ofthe steps.
Then there are 12 screws holding down this super thick mid-frame to the motherboard.
Going to remove that; just popping it out of the plastic frame.
And this is attachedto the battery.
The battery is a 4,000 milliamp battery.
It is super super thick and veryheavy.
There are no pull tabs or anything underneath it so we’re just going to usethe blunt edge of my pry tool and pop it out of the frame.
Then you can set your new batteryback down into place if you’re replacing it.
Let’s give this phone a thumbs up forhaving such a beastly battery.
There’s one screw underneath the proximity sensor.
Andthen I’m going to detach the front mic as well.
There are two ribbon cables down hereat the bottom.
I’m also going to remove the SIM card tray and then the motherboardcan just pop out of the frame.
Here are the contact points for the wireless charger.
Wehave the contact points for the earpiece, the headphone jack, the side power buttons.
Down here is the vibrator and the loud speaker underneath the charging port; which we willget to in a second.
So here is the motherboard.
The front facing camera pops off like a littleLego, as well as the proximity sensor has a little Lego connection, and the rear facingcamera also has the same Lego-type connection as the other components…which makes thingeasily replaceable.
So on top here we have the rear facing 12 megapixel camera.
And onbottom we have the front facing 5 megapixel camera.
You can see that the rear facing cameradoes have the OIS image stabilization where the camera actually compensates for the motionof your hand during the recording.
The front facing camera does not have OIS.
It’s prettyeasy to attach the cameras back to the frame again, just set them into place and you’llfeel the little connection clip in exactly like a little Lego.
The SIM card tray is notremovable and you can kind of see the discoloration from the processor but that’s pretty normalwith all smart phones.
The charging port has two screws along the bottom and then you canpull it out of the little slot that it’s sitting in.
There is a little rubber ringaround the end of the charging port.
I’ll show you how to install that on your new one.
The loud speaker is underneath the charging port.
So here is the charging port.
It alsohas the back button and menu buttons built into the charging port, so if one of thosebuttons is messed up you’ll need to replace the charging port to fix it.
It has a builtin microphone and then the micro USB charging port has a little rubber ring around the endof it, and that helps with water proofing as it rests against the edge of the plasticframe.
We’re going to pop that back in and put the two black screws in along the bottomto hold it tight.
Now the charging port connects to the bottom of the motherboard but it’son the back of the motherboard so it’s important to clip it in before you set the motherboardinto place.
It’s the same design as the Galaxy S6 and the Note phones.
We’re goingto set the motherboard into place making sure that there’s nothing being pinched underneaththe bottom edge of it.
There’s one screw at the top underneath the proximity sensorthat we’re going to screw in.
The SIM card tray can set into place, and then we’regoing to connect these wire cables, just position them over the top of the little circle doohickeyand then press them down into place.
Then the thick mid-frame and the battery get setdown into place on top of the motherboard.
You can hear it satisfyingly click in as youpress it into place.
I’m not going to connect the battery yet.
I’m going to make sureall of these 12 screws are screwed in.
And then I’m going to connect the home buttoncable and put the little plastic connector over the top of it so it doesn’t come loose.
Now I can connect the battery.
Take very very special care not to turn on the phone as you’reconnecting the screen.
Having power through that connection as you’re connecting itcould be very bad for your new screen.
Taking care not to touch the power button, clip yournew screen into place.
I’m just using my old screen, the same broken one as before,because the new screens are not available yet.
And to my surprise, the thing actuallystill works.
I had zero expectations that this thing was going to survive.
Most phoneshave a glass digitizer, the part that senses your touch, so if you crack that it doesn’tsensor touch anymore and the screen breaks.
But this phone could very well have a plasticdigitizer like the Droid Turbo 2.
Your new screen will probably have adhesive on thebottom of it, so remove the protection over the adhesive and set it down into place.
Andyou should be good to go.
Make sure the home button lines up through the hole in the screenand pinch everything down into place.
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Thank you somuch for watching and I hope to see you around.